Camel

Camel
A very happy Camel

Friday, August 31, 2012

Tear drops and baby bunnies


Today I had my first good cry. I was looking at pictures on my computer for some family pictures to print out for the classroom and stumbled upon some video of my nephew on a solo carrousel ride about a year ago. At the time we couldn't tell if he was laughing or crying until we saw his face lit up in a huge smile. In the background you can hear my Mom, Sister and I laughing hysterically. The video is only a few minutes but it made me smile...then laugh...and well then I lost it. Before you say anything about how I need to toughen up or how it has only been eleven days (which in and of itself is crazy because it feels like at least a month) just know that this is the first time I have left for a long period of time. Realizing that I wasn't going home anytime soon to get a big hug from my little man really set the waterworks in motion.

 
The other issue is that while I have made some great friends over the past few days, I am here alone. I miss my family and I miss my friends. Skype and Facebook are great but they are not physical. I haven't had a hug in almost two weeks and I am a hugger folks! I pulled it together, put on my clothes, and while I had good intentions (yes those pesky things again) to go to the school and get some more work done, I decided to run some errands. So I spent the day on my own exploring more of the city.

 
For those of you who don't know, the week is Sunday through Thursday here and while everyday includes a lot of prayer, Friday's are the holy day. Many businesses shut down from 1pm to 4:30pm everyday but on Friday many of those businesses don't open at all until 4:30pm. So setting out at around noon, I went to Al Mohalab Mall in Hawally as I knew it was near Jarir Bookstore (I figured I should at least pick up some school supplies). Al Mohalab Mall, or “The Titanic” as many locals know it because it looks like the bow of a big ship, is not much to look at on the outside and I had already passed it several times on the way to school. However as with many things in Kuwait the inside is better than the outside. The mall is four levels of shops and cafes with the top level being saved for spas, health clubs and doctor's offices (or at least that's what it looked like from my vantage point). Some shops were open and all the coffee places were serving but the best part (aside from the AC) was the mall was mostly deserted. Unlike the insane evening crowds one finds at The Avenues, the few folks who were there were a mixed bag of Nationals and Expats and everyone was pleasant (well except for one shop clerk who had a sour face but I have decided to give her the benefit of the doubt. I mean not all of us have been blessed with pleasant faces, or teeth, or senses of humor).

 
I ordered a blended coffee concoction from Caribou Coffee and sat in a cozy little leather chair next to a fireplace (did I mention that it was 116F outside?) which had a lovely little glow going. I cracked open my journal and got to writing. Those of you who know me know how rare this is. In fact, I haven't written in my journal since my flight overseas. Then, because I was feeling better, I decided that even though it was only 2:00pm and the Jarir Bookstore didn't open until 4:30 that I would go find it. I mean, why stay in a comfortably air conditioned mall when the scorching heat of the desert is waiting to be experienced outside? I took a cab a cab down the street (thanks Mr. Cabman for not mentioning that my destination was merely across the street and through a parking lot. Oh and thank you also for charging me a full dinar to go a few yards. Live and learn the famous “They” say.).

 
Jarir Bookstore is inside Hawally Park which is a theme park that starts hopping when the temperatures cool down a bit. So I thought to myself "Well you can't just sit here in the heat Michele. There must be somewhere around here where you can get coffee." Going back to Al Mohalab would have been the intelligent thing to do but I am an explorer so I went in a different direction (which is brilliant for a Westerner to do in 116F...seriously, sometimes I wonder if I should be teaching) and well there were a bunch of buildings with closed shops lining the streets.

 
There was an electronics shop open and I went in but their AC wasn't working! By this point I could feel pools of sweat collecting in the small space between my belt and my back. They did have fans blowing though so I spent a little time pretending to be a SLR camera expert in order to stand near the cooling air. Eventually I just went back to Hawally Park, found a bench in the shade near a fan with mist, and played Angry Birds for an hour waiting for the bookstore to open. It really wasn't that bad. I met a nice British lady who helped pass the time and then oh joy of joys the bookstore opened! I don't know if I have ever been so happy to walk into a place! Not only was ice cold air surrounding every bead of sweat on my body, the place is filled with art supplies, office supplies, and books. Oh heaven! I purchased the supplies I needed for the classroom and then I got selfish. I bought myself a sketch book and some great charcoal pencils. Let the sketching begin!

 
On my way out I took some pictures of some odd little novelty shops. My favorite one was called Strange Birds and Ornamental Fish. They sell baby bunnies wearing little dresses and neon dyed baby chicks as well as what I can only imagine are Strange Birds and Ornamental Fish. It's all the rage among the 10 and under Hello Kitty set.

 
Finally I hopped in another cab which not only had plastic lined seats and was very clean but the driver tuned the radio to an english speaking station that was pumping out a really great remix of an Adele song. His name is Housin and he is from Bangladesh. His English was pretty good and he let me set the price. Yes there are heroes in the world. I got his number as he is my new go to guy. Everyone who doesn't have a car here has a good Taxi guy or two programmed into their phones.

 
All in all it was a good day. I ventured out on my own and managed to deal effectively with the pain I have in my heart. Best cure for loneliness is to stay busy. Of course...because it's me, I'm back home alone playing sad songs. The only way to get through something is to let yourself go through it. I am going to put a kettle on for some tea and eat my take out left overs (brilliant thing here is that all restaurants deliver). Perhaps I'll do a little lesson planning, a little sketching, another Gossip Girl marathon on Netflix (Don't judge me), or all of the above.

 
To my Family and Friends, knowing that I am not coming home or seeing you for a while is really difficult. I miss you and value you now more than ever. I’m sure it’s going to get harder as time passes but please don't worry. I am amazed by all I see and continue to find beauty and laughter wherever I go. I love you all and you are in my daily thoughts and prayers. This place is wild and different and now I know what it is like to be the foreigner...it is making me a stronger person and challenging me in ways I didn't expect. When you find yourself feeling a little down for whatever reason, know that there is someone very far away who is thinking about you and counting the days until she can hug you again. No matter what ocean or desert separates us, none of us are truly alone. That thought is what is keeping me going.

Now for some pictures of baby bunnies, colorful chicks, and other Kuwaiti novelties to cheer me up…Enjoy!


Masaa el kheer  












 

Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Life in Kuwait thus far

They say the road to hell is paved with good intentions and while that may have very little to do with what I am trying to say right now, I like it ( in spite of having been said by the insipid "They" who are always busy saying things). With regards to good intentions...I have had so many since I got here. One of which was to post on this blog regularly. I'll spare you the I've been so busy excuse because frankly it is true so it has ceased to be an excuse and just flat out reality. Speaking of flat...the plethora of amazing flat breads here is torture for a Gluten-free individual but I digress. As promised in my last post here are some of my first impressions from week one.

Kuwait is:

Hot. Yes I know..."No surprise there Einstein" but seriously. I remember thinking as I was checking the temperatures in Kuwait safely from the weather app on my iPhone whilst sipping coffee on Larchmont Blvd "120 degrees Fahrenheit? Good Lord that's hot!" In fact I'm fairly sure I exclaimed just that to my Mother as she daintily took sips from her cold gazpacho. What I also remember thinking was "How different can 120 be from 105? Anything after 105 is just hot."

Oh how I laugh at myself now. Let me tell those of you who have never been in extremely hot weather-- There is a HUGE difference from 105 and 120 and on days like today where it was 118 in the shade one prays for the dulcet coolness of 105 degrees. The thought of a blissful day spent cavorting around in 95 degree weather has become a fantasy. I'm sure anything under 80 degrees will have me putting on a light sweater.

The very surrealness of being in an environment where the breeze off of the Gulf fills the air with sand instead of cool air prolongs the period of acclimatizing. For those of you still reading I will tell you in a veiled attempt at mystery that I did spend one eventing on the yacht of a person of royal liniage and took an amazing cruise around the coast of Kuwait at night (which is strikingly beautiful when lit up). There I discovered that being on the water here does not bring an escape from the heat with cool ocean breezes. When the boat is moving it is amazing. Warm breeze drys the sweat on your skin and salt water doesn't just kiss your hair...it invades it, turning all women into wild sirens. Once the vessel anchors and sits for awhile rocking back in forth in the wake of larger ships, the heat makes everyone glisten. Both men and women, shiney and wild haired, beautiful and surrounded by darkness as the stars are blotted out by the tremendous lights of Kuwait City at night.

Sandy. Again, not shocking. I expected it. I knew I was coming to the desert. I didn't know though that on sandy days the air gets positively thick with it. My first night here I stepped out onto the balcony of my hotel to snap a picture and when I came back in (5 minutes later due to the heat and wind) my skin was covered in a light dust as where my teeth. Washing hands and brushing teeth the water washes down as beige as the buildings.

Kuwait is a very extreme place. It is extremely wealthy and yet there are people here living in the most horrendous conditions. Unlike places like Dubai which goes to great lengths to hide poverty, Kuwait has it all out in the open. The contrast between wealth and poverty are prominantly on display. The buildings are either brand new, crumbling down, or some strange combination of the two. It is a world where you definatley can't judge by the outside. New buildings that look quite nice on the outside maybe sparse on the inside. Or they may be crumbling outside but beautiful once you venture inside. All of the things I researched about Kuwait have turned out to be correct but all of the research didn't really prepare me for it. Here are some other observations that now go beyond first impressions as I have been here now for a whopping 8 days (which have been very full).

Sounds: Everybody honks. Arabic is loud and expressive. The building I am in is never quite (someone above me is dragging furniture across the floor constantly). Construction is a 24 hour job. Calls to prayer are 5 times a day and while it kind of freaked me out the first time I heard it I am quite fond of them now.

Smells: There are outdoor food stalls everywhere. Spices, incense, trash, bodyodor, salt water, roasting meat. Good, bad, and everything else in between.

Beige: I never knew how many shades of beige there were. While I get that the color of the buildings mirrors the color of the desert floor for a reason, the color here really pops when you see it. The old Souq and all of the hanging fabrics and rugs are quite marvelous.

Villas: The size of single family homes here can be quite impressive. They get really, really big. Certain parts of town seem to be made up of palaces.

Price: The Kuwaiti Dinar is the strongest currency in the world. As a result it is beyond expensive for anyone else. The money is pretty though (and starting to make sense).

People: Talk about a diverse city! This is a subject I want to talk about further so I will wait.

There is so much more I want to say about this place. When I first got here I didn't think I would make it very long. Around day 5 I started enjoying myself. Now I find I am kind of falling for it. It is extreme. I miss everyone back home and I miss cool breezes. There is a sort of beauty here I can't explain just yet. Perhaps it is because it still feels so foreign but I am settling in. Now I am off to continue setting up my classroom. But first a trip to The Avenues Mall for some small luxuries. I will also provide some before and after pictures of my classroom. I am pretty excited to get started with the students.

Ma'salaam

Michele



 

Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Landed

Well it's official. I now live in Kuwait. Here now for my friends and family is a little post about the trip over and my impressions so far written from the air conditioned comfort of my hotel room while sipping tea.

Leaving my friends and family is one of the hardest things I have ever done. First there was a little trip to Napa to see my Dad and Stepmother the weekend of August 3rd-6th. My sister, Nephew Micah and I drove up there and then my Mom and Stepdad came up too. We hung out, went to a fun concert, out to eat at a great restaurant in Napa (where I fell down and introduced my face to the pavement while butchering the skin on my good knee), toured around St. Helena and Calistoga and just had a good weekend where I got plenty of Dad hugs to last me through the next year. The next week was followed by last minute doings (more document stuff) and packing. It was amazing to me how fast the time flew.
Norma with the grapes
Dad giving Micah a lift
Castello de Amorosa in Calistoga


     We kicked off my departure on Thursday with a trip to Disneyland. Two of my closest friends Lizel and Bret took me down to the Happiest Place on Earth where we proceeded to live it up...seriously. Met up with my friend BJ (Disney guide extraordinaire) and the four of us hung out for a while, then later met up with two more friends in California Adventure (Richie and Jerome who literally take the cake in the awesome department). I will spare you all of the details but let's just say...I had an amazing day that included light up long island iced teas in California Adventure, the most terrifying ride I have ever been on (The Tower of Terror) and enjoyed (even though I am convinced that's where the burst blood vessel in my eye came from), lost the ability to walk (which made up for the "special needs" pass I got at the beginning of the day due to my limited mobility issue...thank you Hawaii...thank you motorized scooters...thank you vertigo), and closed the park down ending with the last tram to the parking structure. Amazing! (Oh and yes...I over use parentheticals. Get over it. I love them [I even love to insert parentheticals inside parentheticals] and will never stop!)

 
Before the motion sickness of Star Tours
After the Long Island Iced Teas


     Then on Friday night I had a little going away shin dig at a cool little speak easy called The Next Door Lounge. Forgive me for sounding like a braggart but I must say that I have the most interesting friends in the world. That is why you should get to know me...if you don't already...but let's face it, who is reading this blog? My Mom, my sister, maybe my Dad...you get the picture. I love the people in my life. It's pretty cool being super wealthy like that.

I am not posting pictures of anyone from this night as they are all too famous to be photographed


The final event was on Saturday with an open house at the apartment where family and friends could come to say farewell. My mother did a head count and we had more people than we have ever had at the apartment and could barely squeeze anyone in. There were kids running around and many more fascinating and brilliant folks mingling and I can honestly say I have never felt more blessed. I started feeling pretty emotional towards the end and when people started leaving and issuing hugs and blessings, I am afraid the waterworks started.

Because it is hard saying goodbye (and yes it is only for 10 months but who knows what adventures I will take on next...and we never know how long we have with our favorite people anyway) Sunday was filled with prayers from my church family followed by pizza back at the apartment with Bret, Lizel, Jeannette, Mike, Mom, Mark, and Micah. I was doing pretty well until Bret and Lizel said goodbye. I started crying and cried almost all the way to the airport. Then I had to hug my family who was so great staying with me until I had to go through the security check point. That's when things got really hard. My Mom and my Sister are my best friends and I tried to put a brave face on things but failed miserably. Micah even ran back to give me another hug and kiss. It was like a scene in a movie.

Now for a quick note on the journey before I head out into the heat for some shawarma. By the time I boarded the Turkish Airlines flight to Istanbul I felt like I had already left the US. The flight was long, cramped, hot, but had pretty decent food (and wine) and a cool feature where you could watch aerial shots from the plane on the screen in front of you. I watched two stupid movies, tried to sleep, walked around and did all the things people told me to do to avoid swelling but I still had trouble getting my feet back in my clogs after we landed. The airport in Istanbul is huge! It is more like a mall than anything else. It looks like a beautiful place and I can't wait to go back. The sea is very blue and the houses all had an architectural inconsistency which was appealing. Then it was onto a smaller Turkish Airlines flight (this time we were crowded into a shuttle bus and driven to the tarmac where we boarded old fashioned style up some steps...very Mad Men) and I talked for a while with the guy in the seat next to me who is also teaching somewhere in Kuwait and seemed like quite the Gypsy. I watched another movie (Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol...cause it was filmed in Dubai) and we flew over the nighttime landscape of Syria and then right over Baghdad. Once we got to Kuwait...I had lost all track of time and space and while the airport is small I found it really easy to navigate. The Visa guys were all nice, the guy who grabbed my suitcases was also nice, and then met up with some of the other arriving teachers and ACA staff at the pick up area. My first impressions of Kuwait will have to wait (I tried not to do it but I am too jet lagged and hungry to figure out an alternative) I am off now to go get some food and will tell you all about my first impressions later.

Ma’a salama

Michele

View from my room at the Gulf Casa Suites Bneit Elgar, Block 2, 74 Street, Kuwait City, 13071 Kuwait

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Documents, Documents, Documents!

I leave for Kuwait in 18 days! It is hard to believe that the time has gone by so quickly. I am really excited for my adventure to begin however the excitement and preparation process has been hampered by the insanity inducing Visa process. For every step mentioned, one discovers 25 additional steps are needed. It is quite frustrating and thanks to the fantastic Facebook group started by my employer, I know I am not alone. In fact, my experience has not been nearly as crazy making as some of the other teachers have faced. The application process has not only cost me time but a good deal of money which thanks to crashing my car last year and receiving a decent settlement I can afford (I pat myself on the back for the genius demonstrated in totaling my vehicle right after paying it off). I will bore you with those details no longer but will at the end of this post provide a link to the greatest company that will help you from the start (I just found out about them yesterday from the Kuwaiti Embassy and wish I had known about them from the beginning).

For those of you who do not know, I am moving to Kuwait to teach 1st Grade (all boys) for the American Creative Academy. When I earned my bachelor's degree and multiple subject teaching credential four years ago, Kuwait was nowhere in my imaginings. I pictured myself working in a school in Southern California for a few years and then perhaps teaching abroad someplace that really needed my help...like say the south of France. After four years of dead end jobs and fruitless searches for a teaching job (I tried everywhere...seriously...I mean we're talking northern Alaska everywhere) I was not feeling very encouraged for a future in educaiton. Also, there are so many highly qualified teachers who are out of work in the job pool and every district can afford to be picky so new teachers stand little chance unless you know someone. My mother just retired after 25 years of teaching with Los Angeles Unified School District and while she knows a lot of people...many of the newer teachers have received pink slips and the district is not hiring. I couldn't even get a substitute teacher job and even though I graduated with honors and have outstanding references, I couldn't secure a position. *To new teachers out there: this is not to say that there are not opportunities. I have actually had a few friends who have been successful at landing teaching jobs but it is not easy and my experience has been really difficult. Until now.

Kuwait needs good teachers. Hurrah! The interview process was fun and easy. Hurrah! (Thank you Skype) The offers came flying in and are quite cozy. Comfortable salary, housing, and utilities all paid for along with annual round-trip tickets. Hurrah! I will have a teaching assistant in the classroom (which teachers will appreciate is a huge bonus) and the school offers professional development. Hurrah! This is all wonderful and I am incredibly grateful and can't wait to get started. Flip side--It is not easy (or cheap) to get all of the paperwork done and it requires time, money, and a positive attitude to get you through the inevitable glitches.

Now this weekend I am off to Napa for a trip to see my Dad and Stepmother before I leave and my Sister, Nephew, Mom and Stepfather will all be going with me! It is going to be wonderful having my family together for some fun and relaxation before I take off for 10 months. This adventure is going to be huge. Not only am I moving to a foreign country...but it is my first year teaching. Now say a prayer, cross your fingers, rub a belly or catch a four leaf clover...I have to wait for the Department of State to return my documents so I can get them authenticated by the Kuwaiti Embassy and it all has to be done before I get on the plane August 19th. Something tells me though that it will all get done and as the big guy upstairs has been guiding me through the whole time (including opening my eyes to the possiblities in the Middle East). Thy will be done!


Here is the link to the greatest company for helping you get your paperwork in order (trust me, they are more affordable than doing it yourself and/or going through another company) I really do wish I had known about them sooner. The key is that the moment you get that offer letter...contact them!

www.authxperts.com

They have links to all of the pertinent websites such as the Department of State, Department of Justice, Secretary of State for your state, Embassies, etc. Save yourself time, money, lack of sleep, and headaches by calling them right away!